Sea Lift - Grime, Meet Gravity

Key Features:

- Salt crystals lift off in one pass instead of being polished into the gelcoat with a mitt

- Hard water spots dissolve on glass, stainless, and chrome instead of being buffed

- Mineral scale at the waterline breaks down without aggressive scrubbing

- Bird strike, fish blood, and waterline scum lift cleaner because acidic chemistry breaks the mineral matrix holding the organic deposits in place

- Your ceramic coating, wax, or sealant stays right where you put it

- Made in the USA

How to Use — Foam Cannon

1. Pre-rinse the boat or vehicle top to bottom with clean water. Knock off loose grit.
2. Load the foam cannon at decontamination strength. Run heavier than your maintenance wash — 2–3 oz per 32 oz cannon bottle.
3. Apply foam top to bottom in panels. Strip-Tide foams less than maintenance wash — this is normal. The surfactants are working on the contaminants, not building foam.
4. Dwell 3–5 minutes. Longer dwell = deeper strip. Do not let it dry on the surface.
5. Agitate with a stiff wash mitt or detail brush on areas with heavy buildup (waterline, drip lines, lower panels).
6. Rinse heavily — top to bottom, all panels, all crevices.
7. Inspect the water sheeting. A cleaned panel will sheet uniformly with no beading. If you still see beading, you have product left — repeat.

How to Use — Bucket Method

1. Pre-rinse top to bottom.
2. Mix 3–4 oz per gallon — higher than maintenance wash concentration.
3. Two-bucket setup with grit guards. Wash bucket and rinse bucket.
4. Wash in panels with a stiff mitt, top to bottom. Don't be gentle — this is decon.
5. Rinse the mitt every panel in the clean bucket.
6. Rinse the surface fully between sections — don't let suds dry.
7. Final flood rinse end to end.
8. Follow with Prep Potion before applying any coating, sealant, or wax.

Ready-to-use foam cannon formula. Dilute 3–4 oz per gallon for bucket use.

✅ Safe to Use On

• Cured automotive paint - single-stage, basecoat/clearcoat
• Cured marine gelcoat
• Painted fiberglass hulls
• Stainless steel
• Aluminum - raw, polished, anodized
• Chrome
• Powder-coated surfaces - fully cured
• Glass - windshields, side windows, mirrors
• Rigid hard plastics - ABS, polypropylene
• Painted wheels - cured
• Boat trailer paint and metal
• Painted outboard cowlings

❌ Do NOT Use On

• Any wax, sealant, or ceramic coating you want to keep — Strip-Tide is engineered to remove all of them
• Fresh paint less than 30 days cured — can affect curing
• Soft vinyl interior trim (dashboards, soft-touch surfaces)
• Leather upholstery — strips natural oils, causes drying
• Fabric and carpet — leaves residue, can affect dyes
• Tinted window film — repeated use can damage tint adhesive
• Headlight lenses (polycarbonate) — can dull and yellow over time
• Soft-touch painted plastic dash and door panels
• Hot surfaces or panels in direct sun — wait for ambient temp
• Anti-fog or hydrophobic glass coatings — will strip them off

When in doubt — test in an inconspicuous area first.

Pro Tips from the Field

• This is decon, not maintenance. Plan to reprotect everything you strip. Never leave a stripped surface bare overnight — UV, salt, and contamination move fast on unprotected gelcoat and paint.
• Water break test. Pour clean water over a cleaned panel. If it sheets uniformly with no beading, you're chemically decontaminated. If you still see beading, hit it again.
• Work in shade, never in sun. High-surfactant chemistry flashes hot and streaks hard on a warm panel.
• Don't dilute below recommended. Below 2-4 oz per gallon loses stripping power. If the job is light, use Nano Wash instead.
• Step order for full decon: Strip-Tide  → Prep Potion → Solar Flare. Each step removes a different contamination layer.
• For paint correction prep: Strip-Tide is your first step. Oils on the surface clog cutting pads and hide defects. Strip first, then assess what you're actually correcting.
• After Strip-Tide, your surfaces are vulnerable. Reapply Boost Coat, Boost Pro, or your chosen protection within 24 hours.