Grease Gone Pro

No dwell. No scrub. Grease Gone Pro is the concentrated, contact-active version of Grease Gone, built for pro detailers working in volume — engine rooms, bilges, fleets, and marina route work. It binds to grease, oil, and fuel residue on contact and is ready to rinse in seconds. Less dwell means less surface exposure and more jobs per day.

Made by working detailers in the USA.

Why Pro Strength

Standard Grease Gone gives you a few minutes to work. Pro does the work on contact — spray, then rinse. On a full engine room or a day of route work, cutting out dwell and scrubbing saves real time. The trade-off is less room for error, so it's built for people who mask, rinse, and work clean every time.

How to Use

Pro workflow

1. Gear up: chemical-resistant gloves, sealed eye protection, long sleeves.
2. Mask zinc anodes, aluminum, polished hardware, and soft metals in the work zone.
3. Let engines and metal cool to air temperature.
4. Pre-wet surrounding surfaces.
5. Spray directly onto the soiled surface.
6. Rinse within 30 seconds — heavy water flush, pressure rinse if available.
7. On extreme buildup, brush lightly during the rinse, not before.
8. Inspect, repeat if needed, and re-protect once dry.

Do not let it dwell. Extended contact on aluminum, soft metals, or sensitive surfaces causes damage faster than standard Grease Gone.

Safe to Use On / Do Not Use On

✅ Safe on: stainless steel (rinse promptly) · cast iron engine blocks (cooled) · steel (rinse fully to prevent flash rust) · bilges and bilge components · cured gelcoat and marine paint (limit contact, rinse, test first) · concrete shop floors · porcelain · glass (rinse promptly) · HDPE and polypropylene plastics

❌ Do not use on: aluminum of any kind, including anodized · zinc anodes (mask them) · galvanized metal · brass, bronze, and copper · polished metal trim · automotive paint and clear coat · vinyl wraps and decals · leather and vinyl upholstery · acrylic, plexiglass, and polycarbonate · tinted windows · rubber seals (repeat exposure) · soft plastic trim · wood · carbon fiber

When in doubt, test in a hidden area first.

Never Mix With

• Acids — Zero Spot, Reel Clean, vinegar, rust and scale removers. They react and give off heat.
• Bleach or other oxidizers — including Cast Off and household bleach.
• Any cleaner whose ingredients you don't know.

Use it alone, in a clean sprayer or bucket, and rinse the surface before applying any other product. Mixed by accident? Stop, move to fresh air, and flush the area with plenty of water. For exposure, call Poison Control at 1-800-222-1222.

Grease Gone vs. Grease Gone Pro

Not sure which one? Start with Grease Gone.

Pro Tips From the Field

• Rinse fast, rinse heavy. Within 30 seconds of spraying, every time.
• Mask before you spray. Tape and plastic over anodes, aluminum trim, and polished hardware.
• Pre-wet adjacent surfaces. Dilution is your friend.
• Work cool and in the shade. Heat speeds up the reaction and the fumes.
• Brush it on near wiring. Spray onto a brush around connectors and sensors for a buffer.
• Re-protect the same day. Pro strips everything — don't leave metal bare overnight.
• Right tool for the job. For lighter degreasing, standard Grease Gone is easier to control.
• At the dock, capture rinse water with absorbent pads. Don't discharge into the water.

Pairs With

• Grease Gone — standard strength for routine jobs
• Engine Room Reset Bundle — everything for a full engine room cleanup
• Boost Coat — fast re-protection after degreasing
• Boost Coat PRO — ceramic re-protection after degreasing

Safety & SDS

DANGER — highly corrosive. Causes severe skin burns and eye damage. Wear chemical-resistant gloves (nitrile, neoprene, or butyl), splash goggles, and a face shield where splashing is possible. If it gets on skin or in eyes, rinse with water for at least 15 minutes and get medical attention. Keep out of reach of children. Use the Download SDS button below for full safety information.