Grease Gone

Grease doesn't respond to soap. It responds to Grease Gone. A marine-grade alkaline degreaser that cuts engine grease, bilge grime, fuel residue, and oil buildup in engine rooms, bilges, and heavily soiled surfaces — where standard cleaners just push the mess around.

Made by working detailers in the USA.

Why Alkaline

Grease and oil are fats. High-alkaline chemistry breaks fats down so water can carry them away — that's why Grease Gone works where soap just smears. The same power strips wax and sealant and reacts with soft metals like aluminum and zinc, so mask, rinse fast, and re-protect.

How to Use

Degrease

1. Wear chemical-resistant gloves and eye protection. Always.
2. Let engines and metal cool to air temperature.
3. Pre-wet surrounding surfaces to dilute any drip-off.
4. Spray directly onto the soiled surface. Coat evenly.
5. Dwell 1–3 minutes. Don't let it dry.
6. Agitate with a stiff brush or detail brush.
7. Rinse thoroughly with fresh water — pressure rinse if available.
8. Repeat on heavy buildup. Re-protect with Boost Coat once dry.

Don't use Cast Off on the same surface in the same session. Rinse and let the surface dry between products.

Safe to Use On / Do Not Use On

✅ Safe on: stainless steel (rinse promptly) · cast iron engine blocks (cooled) · steel (rinse fully to prevent flash rust) · bilges and bilge components · cured gelcoat and marine paint (short contact, rinse, test first) · concrete shop floors · porcelain · glass (rinse promptly) · HDPE and polypropylene plastics

❌ Do not use on: aluminum of any kind, including anodized · zinc anodes (mask them) · galvanized metal · brass, bronze, and copper · polished metal trim · automotive paint and clear coat · vinyl wraps and decals · leather and vinyl upholstery · acrylic, plexiglass, and polycarbonate · tinted windows · rubber seals (repeat exposure) · soft plastic trim · wood · carbon fiber

When in doubt, test in a hidden area first.

Never Mix With

• Acids — Zero Spot, Reel Clean, vinegar, rust and scale removers. They react and give off heat.
• Bleach or other oxidizers — including Cast Off and household bleach.
• Any cleaner whose ingredients you don't know.

Use it alone, in a clean sprayer or bucket, and rinse the surface before applying any other product. Mixed by accident? Stop, move to fresh air, and flush the area with plenty of water. For exposure, call Poison Control at 1-800-222-1222.

Grease Gone vs. Grease Gone Pro

Not sure which one? Start with Grease Gone.

Pro Tips From the Field

• Rinse promptly. Past 3 minutes, it gets more aggressive — not more effective.
• Mask zinc anodes before degreasing engines or bilges.
• Pre-wet everything nearby. Overspray lands already diluted.
• Work cool and in the shade. Heat speeds up the reaction and the fumes.
• Fresh water, not seawater. Salt water leaves deposits behind.
• Near wiring? Spray onto a brush instead of straight onto the engine.
• At the dock, capture rinse water with absorbent pads. Don't discharge into the water.

Pairs With

• Grease Gone Pro — contact-active strength for pros
• All Purpose — lighter grime on surfaces, vinyl, and interiors
• Engine Room Reset Bundle — everything for a full engine room cleanup
• Boost Coat — re-protect after degreasing

Safety & SDS

DANGER — corrosive. Causes severe skin burns and eye damage. Wear chemical-resistant gloves (nitrile, neoprene, or butyl) and splash goggles. If it gets on skin or in eyes, rinse with water for at least 15 minutes and get medical attention. Keep out of reach of children. Use the Download SDS button below for full safety information.